14 incredible days on Christmas and Cocos (Keeling) islands

The “kingdom of crabs” – as labelled by Sir David Attenborough – truly comes alive during the annual migration. Join Indian Ocean Experiences to witness 60 million red crabs scuttle to the water like a giant red carpet between November and January.

Check into motel-style accommodation at The Sunset. If luxury calls, stay at Swell Lodge – the only accommodation within Christmas Island National Park. Nestled between untouched rainforest and the Indian Ocean, it feels like the edge of the Earth.

Tee off on the lush fairways of Christmas Island Golf Course, Australia’s northernmost course. Or, walk to the Golf Course Lookout to spot red-footed boobies, endangered Christmas Island frigate (booby) birds and golden bosuns soaring over the ocean.

The Golden Bosun Tavern, named after the island’s unique bird sub-species, serves up ocean views and pub classics with a Christmas Island twist. Pull up a chair on the verandah to enjoy the island’s local flavours in a relaxed tropical setting.

Enjoy a Malay-style breakfast with an ocean breeze at the Malay Club’s Idah Kitchen. This oceanside eatery embodies the laid-back island atmosphere and serves soft breakfast rotis paired with Wedang Kopi (strong traditional Indonesian coffee).

Venture into Christmas Island’s biodiverse and Jurassic-like rainforest at Territory Day Park. Walk the gentle 1km (0.6mi) trail to soak in views of Flying Fish Cove and discover the island’s captivating history at the grand Tai Jin House museum.

A blend of Chinese, Australian and European cultures thrives on Christmas Island. Visit one of the island’s Chinese temples, Mar Chor Nui Nui Temple, perched on the cliff’s edge. It’s a unique tribute to the Sea Goddess and the island’s Chinese heritage.

With Chinese being the most common ancestry on Christmas Island, you won’t have to look far to taste its flavours. Enjoy fresh authentic Chinese – think fried rice, wontons and noodles – at the laid-back Lucky Ho restaurant.

Pack a picnic to hike the Dolly Beach walking track, a leisurely 1km (0.6mi) boardwalk that winds through lush rainforest to arrive at the isolated Dolly Beach. Here, powdery white sand frames a dramatic grove of coconut palms and shallow waters.

Hang out on Dolly Beach, where the only footprints will belong to you, a nesting turtle or the island’s giant robber crabs. Swim over the coral reef with your snorkel, then unwind in “Dolly Beach Spa” – a natural rock pool with jacuzzi-like bubbles.

Follow the 7km (4.3mi) boardwalk to watch nature put on a show at The Blowholes. The waves here spurt upwards through hundreds of holes in the rocky coastline, creating airborne water jets in a landscape of black rock beside the ocean. 

South Point, once bustling with phosphate mine workers in the 1900s, is now a ghost town. Explore this Heritage-listed area to find the Chinese South Point Temple and remnants of the old railway station hidden within jungle-like surroundings.

Have you ever seen a sky-blue crab? You’ll have a good chance at the Dales, a unique wetland area teeming with the island's endemic blue species. Walk 1.5km (0.9mi) along the boardwalk to see them, leading to the ever-flowing Hughs Dale Waterfall.

If you’re feeling adventurous, detour off the boardwalk to follow the 800m (0.5mi) trail from Hughs Dale to the equally beautiful Andersons Dale. Here, a small gorge meets a freshwater stream that flows into the ocean next to Tahitian chestnut trees.

Drive to nearby Martin Point to cap off a day of exploring with the best sunset view on the island. Bring your own drinks, take a seat on the picnic table and watch the sky glow orange above the Indian Ocean as frigate (booby) birds soar overhead.

Perched on the edge of the Java Trench (the Indian Ocean's deepest point), Christmas Island offers some of the best diving and snorkelling in the world. Dive or snorkel among vibrant corals and encounter species such as dolphins, turtles and whale sharks.

Just a 10-minute drive from the Settlement township takes you to the enchanting Grotto. Enter the hidden cave to find a sandy-floored rock pool filled with aqua-blue water, illuminated by sunbeams streaming through the cave’s entrance above.

Hang out this afternoon at the palm-tree-lined Flying Fish Cove, the island’s most popular beach. Bring your snorkel to explore the lively reef, catch a wave on a high-swell day or swim in the calm waters at the southern end of Pirate Cove.

Christmas Island boasts Australia’s most remote cinematic experience. Watch a movie under the tropical, star-studded sky at the island’s open-air cinema, showing everything from Hollywood blockbusters to timeless classics. 

Head to the idyllic white coral Lily Beach, one of the island's most protected beaches framed by sheer limestone cliffs. Enjoy a beach BBQ under a shady gazebo, float in the sandy rock pool at low tide or swim into the deeper blue water.

From Lily Beach, follow the coastal boardwalk to the sandy Ethel Beach, for spectacular snorkelling and sightings of ancient fossils. Along the way, you'll likely see adorable brown and red-footed boobies nesting with their fluffy chicks.

On your way back, stop by the stunning Margaret Knoll Lookout for panoramic views of the island's national park and east coast. It’s also one of the best sites for spotting native seabirds and flying foxes, so keep your eyes peeled.

Sit beneath swaying coconut trees and hanging fairy lights next to the ocean at Rumah Tinggi. This al fresco restaurant serves delicious food and cocktails in a truly picturesque location. It's only open on Saturdays, so plan your visit accordingly.

Fishing at Christmas Island’s coral reef drop-offs makes for an epic experience. If it’s a weekend, head out with Zorora Fishing Charters to try your hand at catching wahoo and yellowfin tuna while enjoying freshly prepared sashimi onboard.

Ready to channel your inner adventurer? Head off on the challenging 1.5km (0.9mi) track towards West White Beach, featuring cliff descents supported by rope. Spend the afternoon exploring its white sands, coral reef and rock pools. 

There’s no better way to watch the sun melt over the Indian Ocean than on a sunset cruise. Gather your mates for a two-hour tour with Extra Divers. As you sail around the island, watch the sky transform into a blend of pink, orange and red hues. 

Before departing Christmas Island, shop for locally-made art, handcrafted homewares and colourful clothing at the Wild Papaya Gallery and Gifts. For more souvenirs, head to the Visitor Information Centre’s gift shop.

Check into your accommodation on West Island, the central hub of the "Cocos," as it's known to locals. Options range from beach bungalows to self-contained studios and family-friendly houses, giving you the perfect base to unwind between island adventures.

Head to Tropika’s beachside garden tonight for a feast of Cocos Malay flavours. Known for its fair prices and generous portions, you can grab a great meal at Tropika seven days a week. Remember to reserve a table on the chalkboard by 3pm.

Get to know Home Island with local guide Ossie as he welcomes you to the island on a cultural tour. Visit the museum, meet with elders at the kampong (village), learn a few Cocos Malay words and try your hand at traditional basket weaving.

Step back in time at the Heritage-listed Oceania House, built in 1893 by the Clunies-Ross family. Explore the mansion’s grand rooms – some of which Queen II once occupied – during a guided tour, while listening to tales of the family’s scandals.

Time your trip to the Cocos (Keeling) Islands to coincide with the Hari Raya Puasa (end of Ramadan) celebrations. During this time, you’ll be invited to wander from house to house on the streets of Home Island, enjoying celebratory open feasts.

Spend the rest of your day relaxing on the idyllic Home Island, wading in the beautiful waters lapping Turtle Beach. At the end of the day, fill up on Malay delights at Kampong Cafe and Restaurant or book a table for a sunset dinner at Sweet As Makan.

Orient yourself on Direction Island along the 3.5km (2mi) Heritage Trail. Along the flat, shaded walk you’ll find plaques describing the island's history, including the sinking of the German SMS Emden during the Battle of Cocos in World War I.

Direction Island’s biggest drawcard is Cossies Beach, named Australia’s most beautiful beach in 2017. Lounge on its soft white sand fringed by palm trees and bright blue water. There’s nothing but sand, trees and sea here, so pack plenty of food.

Back on West Island, join the locals for their Thursday afternoon tee-off. But don’t expect an ordinary nine-hole course; golfers on Cocos share their green with planes! It’s the world’s only golf course set on an international runway.

Embark on a Motorised Outrigger Canoe Safari to explore the breathtaking lagoon. Snorkel with turtles and dolphins, enjoy a Champagne breakfast on a floating pontoon, learn about the islands’ history and culture and traverse the tropical jungle.

For a more effortless island-hopping experience, book a day out with Cocos Blue Charters. Discover the pristine Horsburgh Island, snorkel shipwrecks swarming with marine life and venture beyond the lagoon for deep-sea fishing.

Tropical cocktails, beers and a beautiful sunset are what you can expect at Surfer Girl Brewery. Indulge in mouthwatering Mediterranean fare on Mondays, or dig into Asian-inspired dishes with a local coconut twist on Thursdays. Piña colada, anyone?

With 25 uncrowded diving sites, the waters around Cocos are an underwater paradise. Join Cocos Dive to see manta rays, turtles, and the Cocos pygmy angelfish. On a lucky day, you may also see Kat, the only dugong to make Cocos his permanent home.

If you’d rather glide above the water, take a kitesurfing class between July and October and feel the wind in your hair. The Cocos is one of Australia’s best kitesurfing locations – the perfect training ground for beginners or intrepid kitesurfers.

Reflect on your ocean adventures while gazing over the Indian Ocean tonight. Order a takeaway stone-grilled pizza or fresh fish and chips from the hole-in-the-wall Saltys Bakery & Grill, then sink into a bean bag overlooking the ocean and dig in.

The islands’ waters are teeming with fish, and with a few tips from the Visitor Centre, you can catch your dinner straight from the shore. Eager for a full day out? Jump on board a Sports Fishing Adventure with Hello Backing Fly and Sport Fishing.

It’s estimated that 30,000 green and hawksbill turtles live in the middle of the atoll. Walk out to the end of West Island's town jetty on the north of the island in the late afternoon to see dozens of them swimming in the shallows.

Cook your catch for dinner at one of the free public barbecues on West Island. You’ll see the best sunsets from Trannies Beach, the Spot Beach or the Gun Club Beach. Afterwards, sip cocktails at Cocos Club. 

Spend your final morning roaming West Island at your own pace. Rent bicycles from your accommodation, or see a different side of the island on an e-bike tour with Phat Tours. You'll find yourself cycling along secret jungle trails and white sand beaches.

Go behind the scenes at one of Australia’s only coconut plantation farms. On a tour with farmer Tony Lacy, you’ll taste sweet coconut treats, learn to husk a fresh coconut and discover the history of copra (the flesh of a coconut) on the island.

Big Barge Art Centre is housed inside a restored wooden barge and is a work of art in itself. Browse locally made one-off artworks or create your own island-inspired piece during a workshop. Finish up with a drink and a homemade treat next to the ocean.